Sticking feathers up your butt doesn't make you a chicken

Objective : Climbing Technique/Stamina

Warm-up : Up and down climb all Recreation problems in a circuit

Training : (1) Up and down climb Intermediate and Advanced problems

(2) Work roof problems

(3) Work Open traverse
3 min on
3 min rest
3 rounds

Here are some highlights:

Things to improve :

Problem 1 - I started to "chicken wing" at the end.

Problem 2 - Maintain body tension better, less sagging. Since this is my 4th lap, I should be moving faster and with more confidence.

Problem 3 - I can't figure out how to avoid the foot cut on the last move.

Notes: I'm entering the ABS National Citizen's Competition next month. The format is redpoint 5 problems in 3 hours. This session was designed to build that stamina. It lasted about 2.5 hours, my typical climbing sessions are 1-1.5 hour. I'm entering the Open category for the first time. It should be interesting. I had some technical difficulties with the camera which resulted in climbing each problems 3-5 times. I tried to make subtle improvements in succesive lap. Some kid asked for my beta on an Advanced problem which required grabbing a pinch, crowning it with your other hand, and bumping off. The kid had the right body/feet position but just lacked the strength to hold the pinch. Later I saw him struggling on a power endurance oriented 5.12. It had no stopper moves, just continous pulling. He was dogging between 2nd and 3rd hold. It appeared to me the kid thought he was an Advance/5.12 climber. I'm all for getting on projects but sometimes you have to step down to build back up.