Dec 1, 2010

Underperforming Asphalt

Training: 1) Technique

2) 3x repeats

3) Systemboard/hangboard

4) Technique

Jump to 4:45

Re-adapting to plastic pulling

Notes: Today was a perfect day to climb/be outside. I choose to climb/be in the gym. Last day of training before comp. It was a "medium" day. I've adapted to training for climbing at the Intermediate level (at a minimum), moving away from the Novice level. I can't train maximally all the time (which kinda sux).

I dropped the intensity (by a little) and volume (by a lot). Intensity is harder to measure in climbing, but not impossible. I rank order all the problems in the gym (I can do). I chunk them into 10 groups. I only climbed problems in the easiest 8 chunks (~80% intensity). I measure volume by the number of hand movements.

#1 - Thumbless & Both feet on holds. I noticed, by looking at the videos from my recent roadtrip, that I flag too much. A couple of problems could have been sent faster if I worked to have both feet on (including a couple of missed flashes) #2 Focused on quality of movement. #3 Still focused on movement. I choose the systemboard because I wanted to train my biggest indoor limiter, pinches, and the system board has lots of pinches. Did my standard Open Hand switches on the hangboard. #4 Split time between slab climbing and brisk continuous climbing. Foot work & movement = my bread yam & butter (I'm paleo).