Training: 1) Technique
2) Onsight Hardest Routes Possible
4) Power Clean & Push Press
5) Good Mornings
6) Core & Prehab
Notes: It's raining and cold most places in CA. However, I got to train a premier commercial facility - Planet Granite in San Francisco. Nice routes and great weight room.
When I onsight outdoors, I tend to pause and sprint. That works well most of the time. It does not work well on power endurance oriented routes. When I get pumped, I slow down and get stupid. In addition, since I only rope up once a month I lack the mental tolerance to really push myself physically. I worked on those deficiencies today.
#1 I onsighted a hardish route then immediately repeated it. I strive to climb the 2nd lap 20% faster while being more efficient (I didn't measure). #2 Sometimes it is hard for me to separate my ego in training. I have the best intentions of not showing off in the gym. Today I did. I suckered myself into onsighting the harder routes in the gym. I rolled the dice and got about 1/2 of them. I worked on climbing with poise & grace while being pumped silly. #3 2-3 routes per set, 30s of rests between routes, 5-7 minutes of rest between sets. #4 5 Singles @ 185 #5 3X8 @ 135. My lower back is the weakest physical link I have. (I might still be too bulky). #6 Reverse crunches. The Yin to Good Morning Yang. My shoulders are very healthy. Need to reevaluate that aspect of my program.