Training: 1) Technique, 30 minutes
2) Bouldering, 30 minutes
Notes: A recent post by Dave Macloed put together some ideas concerning the lack of progression seen in most climbers. I thought it had to with the "lifestyle" of climbing. I now think it has more to do with the The Resistance. Very few people stand out and try something different. I see it in the gaggle of ducklings wandering from problem to problem in the gym or the "professional" climbers of Boulder, CO only climbing on the outside problem of the week. I want to climb everything, the easy climbs and the hard climbs.
Block Programming makes things so simple its should be a crime. #1 - I tend to freak out and over gip, usually with my whole body. I worked on "decompressing." Some things need to be tight, everything else I try to relax. Yoga on the wall. #2 - Played on some boulder problems. At one point, I tried so hard I ripped a layer of skin off. I had no skin for power endurance training. Oh well.