Apr 20, 2010

The Sessions #7, What a Yellow Light Really Means

The volume pendulum swung the other way during this session. I got on a lot of routes, ~ 11, during the two hours. For me, this kind of sport climbing is more mental taxing than physically taxing. My old, less than great, habits come back once I start getting pumped. It is a mental battle to recognize (since they are ingrained) and start to replace the old habits with better habits. I call this Yellow Light climbing. Don't speed up or slow down, just like when you're driving. Especially - DON'T FREAK OUT. Just focus on the climbing and keep moving. Climbing well during the yellow light separates good from great sport climbers.

I'm not perftect. I don't climb perfectly (none does). In the past, I would expect a redpoint to go perfectly. It never does. I would get frustated and spin out after I made my first micromistake. I'm getting better about dealing with mistakes. Now my inner dialogue is - "Oh, I grabbed a wrong hold. I'll regrab it right. Reset and move on." It makes climbing more enjoyable, with the added bonus of cranking harder.