Apr 14, 2010

Radio Face

Training: 1) Flash Pyramid (up to Open), 45 minutes

2) 1 arm pull-ups, singles
Left - 0, +8, +12 (fail by 1''), +8, 0
Right - 0, +5, +8 (fail), 0, 0

3) 3 Rounds
3 Front Lever Raises
Clapping Push-ups till failure

4) 1-arm dip practice

5) Prehab & Core (even some regular pull-ups)

Notes: I felt light and strong today, still at only 95%. I cranked up the volume (~12 more problems) but only increased intensity a little. Typically when I flash I try to climb perfectly. If I don't, I repeat the problem until it is perfect. The goal is not getting to the top. The goal is becoming a better climber. The flash rule adds a mental component usually missing from gym bouldering. My physical skills are modest, but my edge comes from my mental skills. I come to the gym ready to train, 3rd stage. Nothing set in the gym can challenge me the way outside climbing can, so I don't let it. I make a decision to crush and I do.

I switched it up and played the "distillation game." The goal was to still flash but remove superfluous holds and moves, getting to the core of each problem. I add an addition rule - my feet can't cut. Otherwise, I'm training sloppy climbing. I would "flash" the problem conventionally if I missed the distillation flash. It is just a game to keep training fun (and still accomplishing my goals). On the way back down the pyramid, I focused on climbing perfectly and relaxed in a fatigued state.

#1 - I wanted to set a PR in 1 arm pull-ups. I was forced to use 12lbs (instead of 11lbs) because I forgot to bring my own weights to the gym. I failed according to my standards (dead hang from full extension to chin touching hand above wrist). #4- I've never done a 1-arm dip. It sounds like fun.