Jan 15, 2010

Wanna Be Gunslinger, Trying the Todd Skinner Workout

Date: 11/14/10
Location: The Spot Bouldering Gym, Boulder, CO
Training: Power Oriented Bouldering

Date: 11/15/10
Location: Movement Climbing + Fitness, Boulder, CO
Training: Endurance Oriented Routes

Notes: I'm floating in the ether, programming wise. I've made a solid short run at linear strength gains. I need to switch gears to prepare for the spring sport climbing season. I decided to try the Todd Skinner Workout during this transition period. I'm a sucker for trying different workouts. I scaled down the first day by skipping the dips and finger rolls. I did large volume of 11s and 12s on the second day, until I "hit the wall."

The hardest part of the program is a lack of facilities (it is hard to complain compared to Todd Skinner's time). The Spot doesn't have power orientated bouldering. I only did the first 5-10 moves (out of 15-20 complete moves). Movement was great for having lots of hard "trainers", consistent power endurance routes. I could follow this program in Boulder but I usually don't spend time in Boulder. I just happened to be there for work. I give the workout one of the biggest compliments I can- I felt productively trashed.