Dec 13, 2009

Boyfriend Experience

Training: 1) Open Hand, 1-arm, Easy Side Top Sloper
5s X 3 (Each Side)
14s X Right
17s X Left

2) Full Crimp, 2-arm, Easy Side Crimp
5s X 3
10s X 1

In The Lab
Getting Stronger

Notes: Outside climbing was a good warm-up for training. You can never be too strong. Moon Climbing is the best workout I have found for maximum finger strength. Basically - variety of hand positions, hang short time (<10s),rest long time (>1 minute). There is a couple of tweaks I make to address weaknesses in the template. There is a lack of specificity, an individual might need to focus on different grips, and progression, systematic improvement over time.

I'm interested in transforming a workout into a training plan. I take additional cues from Westside Barbell , one max effort per week and undulating periodization. Currently, I'm tweaking my program by incorporating a method from Wendler's 5/3/1. The program advocates straight sets for the first sets than max reps for last set. If you blow through lots of reps (or time) during the last set, add weight next time. It is a simple method to assure volume and progression. I'm adding weight to both hangs next time.