Training: 1) Sloper, Systemboard, Upper Left, Match
2) 1/2 Crimp, Systemboard, #1
3) Full Crimp, Systemboard, #0
4) Flash, 1 Adv+ & 1 Open Problem
5) 2 rounds
Rhythm Intervals, Level 2
35 on/25 off
rest 4:00 between rounds
Notes: Feel stronger, even though the strength metrics were the same. I need to make #3 harder. I could make it more difficult by decreasing rest (not conductive to strength gains), increase hold distance (would throw off 1/2 crimp training), decreases hold size (not possible since I'm already using the smallest holds in the gym), or increase load. The plan is to increase load but I forgot the weight vest.
I almost got sucked into the "gym climbing social bouldering game", #4, because a bunch of people I knew were climbing. Regardless of their goals or ability, everyone was projecting the same problems. For some people, the project climb was hard/impossible. For others, it was easy. I think the problems were suboptimal training for everyone. Are you playing your friend's game, the routesetter's game, or your game?
Keep to the plan - Get Strong, Get Skilled, Get Fit, Send Climbs (outside).
I'm fascinated that people go immediately into project mode. They have a mind set that every problem has to be solved. On the other hand, I try to stay in send/crush mode. I might not flash everything but I try. If I don't flash, my mental paradigm still focuses on quick sends.
I always want to train more. When it comes to Strength & Conditioning, quality and intensity almost always triumphs quantity. Today I trained hard and went home. I have almost eliminated all junk “mileage”. Every move I do in the gym has a purpose.