Dec 1, 2009

The Session, #1, "You climb like Rob Miller"

Objective: Assessment

Notes: I attend my first session of The Sessions with Justen Sjong. Like all good training programs, it started with an assessment. My assessment was consisted of bouldering, lead climbing, and top roping. I was a wreck from yesterday - I set a route, did a climbing photo shoot, and got on hard FA projects. Although I wasn't in a peak state, I still climbed in my style. I won't get into all the details, but I received quality feedback about my climbing. Justin has amazing visual perspicacity. Most of the session focused on improving my mental game. There was little discussion of specific technique improvement and no talk of strength improvement. In addition, I got some homework to improve my climbing. I'm looking forward to finally having a coach.

On a side note, he decided to skip GPP assessment just by looking at me. Then I told him a little about my CrossFit-type background, which promoted the "You climb like Rob Miller" comment. Rob Miller is a former CrossFit guy and a great climber. While I'm not in the same league, I have same style. It is a blessing and a curse for climbing. I'm skipping all GPP work and might not do any climbing specific strength work.

Random notes - 4 types of breath, down regulation, heels, see texture, dig in