Dec 15, 2009

The Sessions, #3, They Call Him Sensi For a Reason

I'm adapting to Justen's style and adjusting my schedule to be in the best possible state for learning. Today I was getting comfortable with being uncomfortable. Training, if done right, is not enjoyable. I pushed against my boundaries for over 2 hours. It did help that my girlfriend Alex joined me.

I have noticed in the past my climbing feels binary, either I hike a line or it feels impossible. Justin suggested a boulder problem that fit into the "impossible" category for me. The grade was not extreme, but the problem was a problem for me. It started with a couple of reasonable moves which lead to hand/foot match heel straight into hand match on a weird sloper/pinch. I was shut down.

"Every sticking point is either physical, technical, or mental."
Dave Tate

From a physical prespective, I could have weak hamstrings and weak open hand/pinch grip. Form a a technical prespective, I could lack the engrams for hand/foot matches and hand matching. From a mental prespective, I flipped my send switch to off. Justin focuses on mental aspects. I tend to focus on the technical aspects. Both are the quick path. Strengths gains take weeks, months, or years to manifest. Technical and mental gains are more immediate and longer lasting.

In addition, I don't fall enough. I'm not afraid of falling but a fall relaxes me. I flow better afterwords.