Jan 9, 2010

Flagstaff, C0, Not As Bad As I Had Heard

Problems Sent: Monkey Traverse, V4, Flash (felt easy, didn't get pumped)
Crystal Corner, V7, Redpoint (sds, 1 long session, I'm taking all the points)

Notes: I made my first trip to Flagstaff. I have been avoiding the place because of the rumors of sharpish pebbbly rock, eliminates, and a day fee. The rock is not that bad, less pebbly than Crater Lake. There are eliminates, not everything. I avoided the day fee by hitching a ride with a Boulder County resident.

It was interesting scene, everyone from grandparents to screaming babies. I ran into a couple of people I hadn't seen in years. Climbing is still a small tribe. It was nice climbing in the sun without a shirt.

Onto the sends. It was still very snowy and/or wet, limiting the problems to about 4 (with no warm-ups). I failed on some piles to warm-up. Then got down to business on Crystal Corner/Gill Swing. I'm super confused about the rules/grades for this cluster pile, mutiple guidebooks and 20+ locals did not help. I climbed something that started on obvious sit start to undercling to fat pinch to a crystal (somewhere there was a kneebar). It felt like a soft V7. Monkey Traverse is okay. Lots of beginners on it (not a good beginner climb).