Jan 22, 2010

The Hatchery & The Bog, Pre-Season Tune-up

Problems Sent:

Hatchery Boulder

#1, V3, Flash (rad, i was all up in the tree)

#2, V5, Flash (best problem of the day, more mellow than it looks)

#3, V1, Flash (not awkward, just press)

#4, V3, Flash (good warm-up)

#5, V3, Flash (from the stand, hard/horrible from the sit)

Bog Boulder

Warmup I, V2, Flash (snow mantle)

Mr Smackmag, V5, Flash, (total bastardization by crimping the slopers and gill start, would be v7 if done proper)

Unknown, V4/5, Flash (between Beachside Face and Slopey Thrutch, head high crimps move right and mantle, the rest was loose, dirty, and scary)

Simple, V6, 3rd go (would've flash but had wet cold shoes - NEGATIVE, pretty good, not great)

Total Points: 32.5 points, good day considering the amount of snow and cold

Problems Tried: Iron Helix, v6, 1 try (i numbed off on the last move, then got the screaming barflies - NEGATIVE)

Remember - Climbing is suppose to be fun.

This ascent was fun, expect for the last couple of moves.

Notes: My first pilgrimage to upper Poudre Canyon. I was blown away by the amount of rock. (I put myself on restriction, only guidebook problems. However, I did scout some potential sport climbing.) There was some amazing problems on quality rock.

I feel that I can flash most V6s, other than today's high suck factor. I'm building a base towards higher flashs. From my experience, you can pick a grade to redpoint but flash/onsight grades need to be built up. I need to climb outside more so I can more productively apply my strength, a good position to be in. I did notice that I was hesitant on dynamic problems. I don't know if it was a lack of a spotter or a self-limiting belief.

Overall, pretty good for a 1/3 day, early in the season. The spring season looks promising, just waiting for the snow to melt and warmer temps.