Training: 1) Flash, all new problems, 20 minutes
2) Technique, Heels Down, 15 minutes
3) Technique, Dynos, 15 minutes
4) Work, hard problems, 20 minutes
5) Open Hand, System Board Ladder, Upper Left/Upper Right
6) 1/2 Crimp, System Board Ladder, #2
7) Wide Moves, System Board Ladder, Skip 1 up & 1 over
8) Technique, Heels Down, 15 minutes
9) A bunch of gymnastics at home.
Notes: Last workout before the roadtrip and I dropped the hammer. I'm still fired up about Vern's blog. I tried to design a session in his style. I was able to flash all the new problems as a part of an extended warm-up (expect for a couple of dabs). I surprised myself during #4 by linking several very difficult sections together. Seeing the results of simple, progressable strength training. #5-7 basic climbing strength, I do a ladder of 4 moves and rest 1:00.
I was really tired by #8. Perfect time to reinforce technique. I want to climb well when I'm tried so train it. I choose a dead vertical slopey traverse with micro feet. I got PUMPED. The gym got crowded at the end, 5:00 pm, making further training difficult.