Nov 28, 2009

Walking On One’s Eyeballs

1) Technique, Perfect/Heels down, 15 minutes

2) Open Hand, Systemboard, Upper Right/Upper Left

3) 1/2 Crimp, Systemboard, #1 (!!)

4) Full Crimp, Systemboard, #0

5) Technique, Perfect, 15 minutes

6) 3 rounds
Straddle Front Lever, 7s
Technique, Heels down

7) Shoulder Prehab circuit

8) Practice Handstand/HSPU

Notes: The concept of "Perfect Practice" was inspired by a recent Climb Strong post. It discuses Economy Climbing, repeating easy problems with perfect technique and efficiency. I feel like my Economy Climbing is good. I wanted to improve my ability on relatively difficult problems. I repeated an Advanced problem, roughly my flash level, 3 times. Improving each time. Not drastically, a millimeter there and an initiation there. I super setted that with heels down training. My calves are still tight and weak.

I'm following undulating periodization with my strength training. I always train grips from weakest to strongest, slopers-1/2 crimp- full crimp. I maintain with two grips and try to set a PR with one grip. I recently set a PR with full crimp. This time I set a PR with 1/2 crimp. Next time with sloper. It is rad getting measurable stronger.

I picked a bunch of different Adv problems for #5. My left elbow was a little angry when I tried to 1-arm pull-ups (originally from the 2-a-day at BRC).