Nov 25, 2009


Training: 1) Technique, Crack, Hands, Thin Hands, Fingers, 20 minutes

2) Flash, Distillation, 15 minutes

3) Work, Hard Problems, 15 minutes

4) Treadwall, Long Intervals, 1:1

5) Sited Muscle-ups, 3X4

6) 1-legged deck squats, 3X4

7) Plank stars, 3X1

8) 3 rounds
Weighted sit-ups, 45lbs, 10 reps
Reverse wrist curls, 12lbs, 10 reps

9) 3 rounds
Sited Russian Twist, Light kb, 10 reps
Shoulder Scarecrow, 5lbs, 4 reps

10) 1-arm pull-ups, light band assisted, 3X3

Bonus - I went back in the evening to "crag" with my girlfriend and still could flash their 12s.

All training should be progressable, including technique

Video Evidence, #6

Notes: I usually advocate 50% rule for roadtrips, take the half the length of a road trip as a recovery period. I'm not taking my own advice because the last road trip was very mellow. I was going to step up by training at CATS, but it is closed this whole week. NEGATIVE!!! I hit up BRC.

I'm seeing good results from my current approach of hitting technique, climbing, sport specific strength work, sport specific conditioning, and general conditioning. I'll keep it up until it stops working. "Everything works for some of the time. Nothing works forever." I'm always looking for something better and have a couple of leads.

BRC has a pretty good crack setup for training. #2 is a trick I picked up from Timy Fairfield. The better bouldering section was closed for setting so I forced to climb in the older, shorter, more awkward section. The idea is to "distill" boulder problems to their essence, reduce superfluous holds and movements. It is makes old problems new and easy problems hard.

I did #3 in the newer section. I was not able to flash everything. However, I was able to send problems with feet that fit my body size. Are all routesetters micro? #5-7, 10 was my gymnastics training, seeing nice linear gains. #8 & #10 were Mountain Athlete inspired.

I'm tired and looking forward to Thanksgiving. I'm thankful for a lifestyle that allows to me to pursue my adventures and this blog.