Nov 21, 2009

Taos, NM, My 1st V10 & Other Adventures

Problems Sent: C3PO, V10 (1st V10, < 1 hour, SUPER SYKED)
All problems on Warm-up boulder
Righthand Arete, V1, flash (easier to jump start but did 1 hardish move into jugs, sds is double digits)
Unnamed #1 R2D2 boulder, V3, flash (still warming up, hard to try)
Unnamed #3 R2D2 boulder, V5, 2nd go (sds, varied, R2D2 makes no sense)

Problems Tried: Good roadtrip tactics sent everything

Nothing is happening until sun hits and coffee is brewed

Warming up on the great rock

@ warming up

Trying Hard Face

Pressing it out by the rock art

Notes: Alex and I headed to Taos, NM for a long weekend trip. By no means a climbing destination, it offers good weather and a little bit of culture. We camped at Petaca Campground, bouldering at our tent's door. The rock is quaternary volcanic, similar to the Happys of Bishop, only higher quality.

C3P0 is my first V10 and suited me perfectly. It starts on a bad pinch and crimp, make a large move to fair-sized mono, followed by several hard crimp bumps and with a chill top out. I played the game well, broke it down and put it back together. I quickly did all the individual moves and refined my beta. I rested for about 5 minutes before taking burns from the start. It took 3 burns, in total all under 1 hour. It might be soft but I'm taking it. Just another step along the journey.