5X10s
2) 1/2 crimp, 2-arm, Hard Side Middle sloper
5x10s
Hard Side, Get Strong(Ignore the hightops, my trad climber stays in the closet.)
Notes: At my home board, Pusher Power Junkie (the best hangboard). I felt like increasing the volume (increase sets and time under tension) and lower the intensity (increase hold size), intuitive training decision. I need a big change, e.g. a great project, a roadtrip, or a homeboard. I'm dangerously close to a plateau.
An offhand remark on Military Athlete lead me to Vern Gambetta. His whole blog, especially this post got me thinking about strength and conditioning for climbing. For example, another climbing strength and conditioning coach advocates 20 minute pull-up only workouts and 4 minutes on/4 minutes off climbing interval. What are you training with that? Who needs to do that many pull-ups? Whose redpoint burn lasts 4 minutes? This guy redpoints a 9a in less time, including shaking out. In addition, he barely does anything resembling a pull-up. Most climbs are little bits of serious business (with some medium bits before/after), then onroute recovery. Your train should reflect that.
